Oysters Rockefeller: A Dish Rich in Debates

Let it never be said that the Big Easy is short on creativity or flavor. Had it not been for a shortage of French snails in the late 1800s, we may never have known the delicious delicacy that came to be known as Oysters Rockefeller.

It’s hard to imagine that once upon a time, oysters were a substitute for anything. Today, we consider them a luxury item—something we indulge in for special occasions and celebrations. But when the historic restaurant Antoine’s couldn’t get a satisfactory supply of French escargots for one of its house specialties, Snails Bourgignon, they needed a substitute and turned to fresh, local, plump oysters that were readily available. 

The master behind the dish, Chef Jules Alciatore, was the son of the renowned restaurant owner of Antoine’s. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is considered America’s oldest family-run restaurant and the birthplace of many of New Orleans’ classic dishes. To this day, the original recipe is a closely guarded secret, but no one is shy about boasting that more than 4 million orders have been served since its inception.

As to how the dish got its name, there are a couple of theories, but they both come down to the richness of the dish and an allusion to money. One story claims it was because a patron cried out, “These are as rich as a Rockefeller!” after tasting the recipe for the first time. The other is that the green on top of the oysters is reminiscent of greenbacks.

What that “green” atop Oysters Rockefeller is also has been up for a bit of debate. While many achieve the sauce's trademark green color simply using spinach, Antoine's chefs have repeatedly denied the dish contains it. A 1986 laboratory analysis by William Poundstone in the series of books Bigger Secrets indicated its primary ingredients were parsley, pureed and strained celery, scallions or chives, olive oil, and capers. What is certain is that Chef Alciatore took the recipe to his grave and all attempts to recreate it are just that—attempts. 

Regardless of whether it’s spinach, watercress, parsley, or something else, an “authentic” Oysters Rockefeller should include fresh oysters baked on the half shell in a sauce of butter and chopped greens with onion and garlic. It is usually topped with buttered bread crumbs and, often, grated Parmesan cheese, then browned under a broiler.

Why would anyone want to debate about that?